Justine Osilla, founder and winemaker for Kabayan Wines was raised in a traditional Filipino family that envisioned a stable medical career for her. She felt the weight of their expectations but chose to embrace her own dreams. With courage and determination, she boldly forged her own path toward winemaking—a field that intertwines her love for chemistry with her rich cultural heritage. From an early age, she was immersed in wine culture, frequently visiting vineyards with her family and developing a refined palate for diverse wine profiles. These childhood experiences sparked a fascination with the intricate processes of winemaking, propelling her to pursue an academic career in wine at the Fresno State University Viticulture & Enology program. There, she cultivated her skills and deepened her understanding of the science and artistry behind crafting exceptional wines. Throughout her journey, Justine gained invaluable experiences across the wine industry, collaborating with esteemed winemakers and participating in wine tastings and festivals worldwide. These earned opportunities not only enhanced her appreciation for wine but also inspired her latest venture, Kabayan Wines. This label serves as more than just a tribute to exquisite wine; it celebrates community, culture, and inclusivity.
Join me for an engaging Q&A session with the inspiring Filipina winemaker as we dive into her fascinating journey in the world of wine. We’ll explore her initial experiences with wine, from the first time she stepped into a vineyard to the challenges she faced while honing her craft. She’ll share the heartfelt inspiration behind naming her signature wine “Kabayan,” reflecting her cultural heritage and connection to her roots. You won’t want to miss the playful eye roll she gave when I asked her about the rivalry between UC Davis and Fresno State as the better wine school in California. We’ll also delve deeper into the evolving drinking habits of younger generations, discussing how their preferences are shaping the industry and what it means for the future of winemaking.
What was your first experience with wine?
My first encounter with wine took place during a family trip to Napa Valley when I was just 11 years old. I was captivated by the wine-tasting culture—the aromas, the flavors, and the captivating stories that accompany each sip. It wasn’t until I turned 16 that my parents allowed me to take my first sip of red wine. Honestly, while the scent was intoxicating, the taste didn’t quite resonate with me at the time. However, I was determined to cultivate a palate for it and eagerly sought out opportunities to discover wines I enjoyed.
Were your parents big wine drinkers?
My parents developed a taste for wine after we relocated to California from the East Coast in 2003. They would frequently take my sister and me to Napa Valley and Paso Robles twice a year during our childhood. They genuinely appreciate a good bottle and cherish not just the experience of wine tasting, but also the joy of sharing it with others.
Why winemaking? When did you make this decision?
During college, I discovered my passion for chemistry and chose to major in it while pursuing a medical career. Alongside my academic pursuits, I have always been artistic and even worked as a piano teacher. When I learned that winemaking could be a career, I enrolled in the WSET Level 2 course and realized how deeply intertwined chemistry and art are in the winemaking process. That revelation solidified my decision to pursue winemaking, as it perfectly fuses my love for both art and science. The connection of wine to culture and food further deepened my passion for this craft.
How did you come up with the name Kabayan? Does it have a special meaning?
Kabayan translates to “my people” in Tagalog. I sought a name that embodies both my Filipino heritage and the concept of uniting people through shared meals and experiences over a glass of wine. Kabayan honors my roots while also paying tribute to the community that has supported me throughout this journey and continues to inspire my passions.
Why did you choose to move to Sonoma County for winemaking instead of other regions in Northern California?
I fell in love with Sonoma County during a brief stay in 2020. After taking a break from school due to the pandemic, I interned at Williams Selyem, Faust, and Silver Oak/Twomey. I am captivated by Sonoma County’s diverse microclimates and rich soils, which create an ideal environment for producing world-class Pinot Noir. However, it’s the supportive community of small, artisanal producers that truly won my heart, aligning perfectly with my vision for Kabayan.
Currently, I produce in Mendocino County, where I was the lead intern at Dancing Crow Vineyards in 2023. Winemaker Scott Kirkpatrick encouraged me to continue with my second vintage, becoming an invaluable mentor who taught me to view winemaking through a broader lens. Now, as the Enologist at Feliz Creek Cellars, working under the esteemed Wells Guthrie, I am expanding my knowledge and plan to resume Kabayan production. While I remain open to exploring other areas in Northern California, my philosophy is that wherever I go, my wine will follow.
What unique characteristics set Kabayan wines apart from others in the market?
Kabayan wines are dedicated to low-intervention craftsmanship, curating wines that pair beautifully with Filipino cuisine. This creates a harmonious blend of flavors that celebrates the rich and diverse culture of the Philippines. We use minimal additives, providing only what the wine needs—neither more nor less—allowing the purity of the fruit to shine through. This commitment to quality ensures that each sip is a true reflection of the vineyard’s terroir.
How does the local terroir and the climate of your vineyards influence the flavors and qualities of Kabayan wines?
I source fruit from various regions across Northern California, including Contra Costa County, Lake County, Carneros, Sonoma County, and Mendocino. The unique and diverse terroir of these vineyards, characterized by varied elevations and proximity to the coast, imparts distinct qualities to the grapes. This results in wines with bright acidity and complex flavor profiles that genuinely express the land. My focus is on emphasizing bright acidity and intricate aromatics, which not only pair well with my culture’s foods but also enhance ageability.
Sustainable and organic practices are increasingly vital in winemaking. How do these practices influence your work at Kabayan?
At Kabayan, sustainability is a fundamental value. I source fruit from vineyards that prioritize organic, low-intervention, and regenerative farming practices. I seek out vineyards that foster biodiversity, allowing me to maintain a minimal-intervention approach in the winemaking process. This dedication enhances the quality of my wines while respecting the environment.
In your opinion, what are some traditional drinks in the Filipino community?
Traditional beverages in my culture often include San Miguel beer and various local spirits such as Lambanog [distilled palm sugar/coconut] gin, and rum. However, I believe there is a growing appreciation for wine, especially as more Filipinos explore food pairings.
What is your favorite part of the winemaking process, and could you describe some of the challenges you’ve encountered along the way?
As a small producer, I constantly face challenges such as limited resources, securing production space, locating vineyard owners willing to sell their fruit, and not always having the final say on harvesting decisions. Winemakers are essentially problem solvers, so creativity and adaptability are crucial. My favorite aspect of the process is working closely with the grapes, treating them as living entities, especially during fermentation. I feel deeply connected to each of my wines. It’s only once everything is barreled that I can truly relax, feel at ease, and take pride in the work accomplished that season.
Out of all your experiences as a winemaker, which one has been the most rewarding for you personally?
The most rewarding moment for me was the first time I shared my wine with my family. Witnessing their pride and joy in my work reaffirmed my commitment to this craft.
How have Kabayan wines been received in the market so far, and do you have any plans for expanding your brand’s presence?
The reception has been overwhelmingly positive. My first release, the Mourvèdre, sold out so quickly that I regrettably didn’t keep any for myself! Customers appreciate our unique approach to food pairings. I plan to expand our presence through online publications, enhancing distribution in Filipino restaurants, exploring opportunities in wine shops, and exporting to the Philippines.
Looking to the future, what is your vision for Kabayan wines, and are there any upcoming projects or releases you’re excited about?
I envision Kabayan as a brand that not only creates wine for the Filipino community but also invites others to engage with the richness of my culture. I recently released my Sauvignon Blanc and Pamilya Red Blend, and I’m excited to announce the upcoming release of my super limited Cabernet Sauvignon this winter, of which I only produced a single barrel.
What advice would you give to aspiring winemakers, especially those who may feel daunted by the industry’s challenges?
Stay true to your vision and cultivate patience. Winemaking is a long journey, but passion and perseverance will navigate you through the challenges.
Do you have a personal favorite wine from your collection, and what food pairings do you recommend for Kabayan wines?
I have a particular affinity for aromatic whites, which inspired me to create my Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes originate from a unique vineyard called El Retono, encompassing 16 acres of regeneratively grown Sauvignon Blanc. Specifically, my grapes come from their two rows of the Musque clone, which has muscat-like characteristics. I recommend pairing it with fried pork belly, sea bass, or one of my Filipino favorites, Sinigang—a delicious tamarind soup.
Could you discuss the cultural and social impact of Kabayan wines and how they contribute to the wine scene both locally and internationally?
Kabayan wines aspire to bridge cultural divides by introducing Filipino flavors and traditions to a broader audience. We are fostering discussions about diversity in the wine industry and encouraging more people to embrace wine as part of their culinary experiences.
[With a devilish grin] UC Davis claims to be the premier winemaking school in California. Do you disagree?
[Initially rolling her eyes] While UC Davis undeniably has a strong program in viticulture and enology, I believe there are numerous paths to success in winemaking. I attended Fresno State, which is noteworthy as the pioneer school for viticulture and enology. They host the very first on-campus bonded winery where students grow the grapes, produce the wine, and sell it locally to major markets like Trader Joe’s and Costco. I have immense respect for the many award-winning winemakers and growers who are graduates of Fresno State.
Name three people in the wine industry you admire and why?
Martha Stoumen of Martha Stoumen Wines – I admire her commitment to sustainable practices and her work with obscure varietals. She was the first female winemaker I learned about, and I’ve looked up to her ever since. They say not to meet your heroes, but I’m so glad I did. Meeting her in person and discovering how down-to-earth she is was surreal.
Tara Gomez of Camins 2 Dreams – A Fresno State alumna and the first Native American winemaker. I admire her passion for chemistry and her talent for crafting small-batch premium wines. Together with her wife, she started Camins 2 Dreams, and their wines are among my favorites. Tara exemplifies the kind of winemaker I aspire to be, not only for her skills but for her humility and generosity in an industry often filled with ego.
Jeff Mangahas of Williams Selyem – During my internship at Williams Selyem, I was pleasantly surprised to find the Winemaking Director was the first Filipino winemaker I’d ever met. Sampling grapes in the vineyards with him while discussing our cultural foods was a remarkable experience, especially hearing about his transition from cancer research to winemaking.
Why do you think people of your generation are not embracing wine the same way as older generations?
There is a notable shift toward valuing experiences over material possessions. Many younger individuals prioritize craft beers and cocktails, which offer a different social experience. However, I observe a growing interest in wine as education and cultural appreciation evolve.
Any Final Words
I had the privilege of sharing my wines and story at Lamon, the first-ever zero-waste FilipinX Food and Wine Summit, held recently in honor of Filipino American History Month. Following the summit, we hosted a Kamayan dinner [which means “to eat with your hands”], where my Kabayan wines were paired with traditional Filipino dishes.